Xi’an, Curated

Article by XIANEASE

Autumn’s arrival means that a lot of expats are coming into the city, both for the first time and for the umpteenth time, to start working again. Many of us are going to be caught up in the grind, which will leave precious little time to go on trips. However, there’s more to this expat experience than just going to see things—there are also ample opportunities to learn more about this crazy little city we all call home (at least for now). If you’re curious about the things that make Xi’an what it is, both past and present, these museums will tell you everything you’ve ever wanted to know (and probably more than that).

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4-3SHAANXI HISTORY MUSEUM

Where is it?
Xiaozhai East Road and Cuihua Road

Best way to get there?
If you don’t mind walking a long Xi’an block, just get to the north square of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda and go west. There are plenty of buses, not to mention the subway, available to you.

How much is admission?
Free, if you’re one of the first 2500 visitors before 2pm; after that, 1500 additional free tickets are available until 4pm. If those caps are met, they start to limit visitors so that the place doesn’t get too crowded. Also, bring an ID.

What can I expect?
A holistic view of Shaanxi Province’s history, starting with the Neolithic Era. You can also expect it to be closed on Mondays for maintenance.

Can you tell me more?
If you want a crash course in how we got here, the Shaanxi History Museum is a great place to go. There are three permanent exhibitions that start in ancient, proto-Xi’anese cultures (including some artifacts found at the Banpo Neolithic site) and move through the dynastic era. You can also count on many limited exhibitions—for example, at the time of writing, there is an exhibition on the social and economic development of Xi’an during the modern People’s Republic era—so even if you’ve been before you’ll probably find something new on a return visit. Their English website (e.sxhm.com) is easily navigable, so you can check all that stuff out on your own (though you should take our word for it, we would never [knowingly] lie to you).

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BEILIN MUSEUM

Where is it?
Just inside Wenchang Gate, next to the city walls.

Best way to get there?
Wenchang Gate has plenty of buses that stop on the South Ring Road; if you’re committed to using the subway as much as possible, the walk from Yongningmen Station is nice (and thankfully short, maybe 10-15 minutes).

How much is admission?
50-75RMB

What can I expect?
Steles. Lots and lots of steles.

Can you tell me more?
Steles are stones used as monuments or records. If you’re still not following, think of the Ten Commandments—it’s a similar idea, just some important things etched in stone. Beilin, the name shared by both the museum and the district it sits in, translates to “forest of steles,” so you can expect to see hundreds of these, from the important (the Nestorian Stele, which documents Christianity’s earliest days in China) to just the lovely and surprising (a stele of a bamboo forest that, upon more careful observation, reveals itself to be a poem). There are also many non-stele sculptures, as well as the Weibo-famous feral cats who have claimed the museum as their territory. All of this is housed in a Confucian temple, so it’s definitely got a bit more going on than just a series of stone monoliths.

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4-6XI’AN QUJIANG MUSEUM OF FINE ARTS

Where is it?
The Westin Hotel in Qujiang, at the south square of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda

Best way to get there?
Just like the Shaanxi History Museum, taking Metro Line 3 to Dayanta Station and then walking isn’t a bad option, or find any of the millions of buses that’ll take you to the Pagoda.

How much is admission?
Free

What can I expect?
Art. Some would even call their art “fine”.

Can you tell me more?
The Qujiang Museum of Fine Arts is a place that, strangely, you don’t hear a lot about. Their permanent exhibition is called “The Origin and History of Ancient Chinese Murals,” which traces mural development from pre-history through to the Qing Dynasty. In the past they’ve displayed pieces from the so-called Maritime Silk Road, porcelain from the Ming and Qing Dynasties and silverwork and plates from famous artist Pablo Picasso. It’s truly a hidden gem of Xi’an and, especially, if you like hanging out in the Pagoda area, it’s a must-see.

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4-9THE GRAND MOSQUE OF XI’AN

Where is it?
In the heart of the Muslim District.

Best way to get there?
A ride on the subway to Zhonglou Station is probably easiest, but there are so many buses that go to the Bell Tower/Drum Tower you have plenty of options.

How much is admission?
25RMB

What can I expect?
The first and oldest mosque in China.Whether you’re an American trying to compare the grandness of the canyons or just someone who likes a good hike, Enshi is definitely worth a visit.

Can you tell me more?
Not a museum, per se, but a place chock full of living history that a lot of people don’t know about (or if they do, they don’t know how to find it). You can find the Grand Mosque most easily by getting yourself to the Drum Tower, then diving into that souvenir-seller’s gauntlet at the south end of Huiminjie. Observant gauntlet-runners will start to notice signs for the Grand Mosque, just follow them to find it. Non-Muslims won’t be able to enter the mosque proper, but the courtyard is gorgeous and an amazingly quiet respite from the chaos that usually comes with a trip to Huiminjie. One final note, women have been asked to cover up when visiting, so it’s probably not a great place to go while wearing hot pants.

Question or comments about activities around Xi’an contact us at editorial@xianease.com